Three Schools Less is Three Buildings More

In Istanbul numbers of native Greeks are decreasing while Greek Nationals' are on a rise. For decades being a Christian minority in Turkey was a "crucifying" experience like living in Greece in 2011. Year after year the Greek population of the city lessened due to discrimination, pogroms, forced immigration. For the first time you may hear increasing number of people speak Greek on the streets. For those newcomers, Konstantinoupolis, (not Istanbul) is an exotic city full of opportunities and possibilities. Maybe they are grandsons or granddaughters of people who once called this city home, but their perception is totally different from their ancestors. The fiscal crisis expatriated them from Greece and here they find a new environment cut for their needs.

Greece Produces Turkish F-16 parts

Greek daily Ta Nea claims that on April 1st, Greek Aerospace Industries (HAI) shipped four pieces of fuselage to Turkish Aerospace Industries (TAI) in Turkey. These parts will be assembled in Ankara to form new F-16 Fighters for Turkish Air Force. TAI assembles F-16 planes in contract with Lockheed Industries for Turkish use.

Ta Nea notes that these fighter planes might be used in dogfight with Greek aircraft over Aegean airspace with Greek parts. Years ago when the production started in Turkey, Greek Air Force has demanded an investigation about the possibility of Turkish parts, and tried to find ways to exclude such parts in Greek Air Force F-16's.

Lockheed officials said that all F-16 parts are produced according to same standards around the world in certified facilities with the lowest possible cost.

The news found their way into Turkish papers' headlines today.

Keratea in our minds...

Imagining Chios

It's just an island. Or is it? Situated close to Asia Minor, the Greek island of Chios has history, tradition and quality embedded in its culture.

Like the enormous castle that dominates the Chios town (Chora) or the medieval village of Mesta, the whole island resonates a very rich past and a promising future. Although influenced by temporary Italian influences, Chios was a member of the original Ionic League and predominantly Greek throughout the centuries. It is also notable with its huge diaspora dispersed around the world, especially in London, New York and Australia. During summer English can easily become lingua franca in Chios town hotspots.


Chios was also first home of many immigrants from Asia Minor and runaway Greek soldiers from the great catastrophe in the 1920's. These helped form the abundant cultural riches of today's Chios. People of the island come second in hospitality and kindness to none. Mr. Hadzeleni at the harbor's travel agency, or Mr. Spordilis of Hotel Kyma are helping all and every visitor in the best they can, everyday. In my 30 something years of experience I never heard Mr. Hadzeleni say "no" to any request. An islander by birth, Mikis Theodorakis might be considered as an epitome of kindness and grace that represents Chios.

But fame and fashion are not my points in this article. I'd like to present Chios as a mere escape pod. The south full of Masticha trees and unforgettable beaches and the north, although bare, hosting a few of the most unspoiled spots for recreation, Chios is a heaven for many who had enough of the city hustle, let it be in Athens, London, New York or Istanbul. The food, although far from competing with Lesvos, is unique and non-touristic. In Komi, as well as Chios town, you can find authentic tavernas, that will feed you with the care of your grandmother. I would like to mention one: Tasso's in Chios town, 3 minutes walk south of Hotel Chandris (or Hotel Kyma) is the summit of homely cooking in a touristic town.

Last week I was in Chios. Surely that was not my first time there. Living in Smyrna makes it necessary to use Chios as a gateway to Greece or to the rest of the world. However this was special. I wasn't there for a quick day or with a plan. I was there to feel free. And being there to feel free made all the difference. Biking the mountain roads under the sun with a Meltemi breeze, finding hidden treasures, be it food or a village and its blossoming hospitality, were all unique experiences even for a seasoned Greece traveler. I have felt at home in many places in Greece, but Chios felt more home among equals.

I will keep and cherish my memories with my bike and friends there, but I'll share with you this: whenever you feel like you need freedom, forget the crowded streets of Mykonos or Santorini. Chios awaits you with all its charm and sincerity at a short flights range. Say kalimera to all you meet, and they will greet you with unparalleled hospitality, friendship and with their immense culinary riches. And of course best beaches around this neck of the woods are a solid bonus.

Κωδικός: ‘χαμηλή ένταση’

Έχω περάσει πολύ χρόνο στην Ελλάδα και στα νησιά της, πολύ χρόνο από τη ζωή μου. Έχω δει μέρες από τη Μεταπολίτευση. Υπήρξα μάρτυρας μικρών ή μεγάλων οικονομικών συμφορών. Διάολε, η ιστορία της οικογένειάς μου είναι μια καλή απόδειξη για το πώς οι Έλληνες μπορούν να δημιουργήσουν φασαρίες στους εαυτούς τους.

Στη σύγχρονη εποχή, έχω δει απεργίες και διαδηλώσεις οι οποίες αποτελούν καθημερινά  γεγονότα στη ζωή των Ελλήνων.  Αλλά οι εμπειρίες μου σήμερα 29 Ιουνίου 2010 και μετά τις τελευταίες λίγες ημέρες που πέρασα στην Ελλάδα βρίσκονται σε απόλυτη αντίθεση με το πώς ένιωθα στις επισκέψεις μου τις τελευταίες δεκαετίες.

Πρώτα απ’ όλα πότε αρχίσαμε να μιλάμε χαμηλόφωνα οι Έλληνες; Πότε μάθαμε να σιωπούμε και να θρηνούμε τους εαυτούς μας? Πότε τα μάτια μας άρχισαν να κοιτάζουν το πάτωμα αντί για το γαλάζιο ουρανό; Πότε γίναμε το πιο άφωνο είδος στην Ευρώπη; Όπως έχει συμβεί και με άλλα γεγονότα, φυσικά και υπάρχει κακοφωνία στον τύπο άλλα και γενικά μεταξύ των Ελλήνων για το τι συμβαίνει και πως θα το αντιμετωπίσουμε. Αλλά ο τόνος είναι χαμηλός.  Για τα Ελληνικά δεδομένα είναι ψίθυρος.

Ναι η κατάσταση είναι φρικτή. Μετά τις πρόσφατες αυξήσεις στις τιμές προϊόντων γενικής χρήσης και του ΦΠΑ, όλες οι τιμές αυξάνονται καθημερινά. Χθες βράδυ φάγαμε σε ένα εστιατόριο που συχνάζουμε στο Μικρολίμανο. Από την τελευταία επίσκεψη λίγους μήνες πριν, οι τιμές έχουν αυξηθεί τουλάχιστον κατά 20%. Και αυτό είναι υπερβολικό για ένα ήδη ακριβό εστιατόριο για τα Ελληνικά δεδομένα. (Κατά την ταπεινή μου άποψη το Ελληνικό γεύμα έχει την καλύτερη σχέση ποιότητας – τιμής στην Ευρώπη).

Επίσης τη φετινή περίοδο έντονης  τουριστική κίνησης κάποιες εκπλήξεις περιμένουν τους τουρίστες. Δημοφιλείς προορισμοί όπως η Μύκονος έχουν εξωφρενικές τιμές διαμονής για τον Ιούλιο και τον Αύγουστο. Όλοι περιμένουν να ωφεληθούν από τις αναμενόμενες αυξήσεις στις τιμές. (Μια πανσιόν στη Χώρα στην οποία μπορεί να μείνει κανείς με 40 ευρώ σήμερα, κοστίζει 150 ευρώ μετά τις 15 Ιουλίου.) Και οι τιμές των πτήσεων εσωτερικού δε βοηθούν ιδιαίτερα. 

Το πρόβλημα με την αντίληψη των Ελλήνων είναι ότι δύσκολα αλλάζουν τις καθημερινές τους συνήθειες. Για τους περισσότερους από αυτούς οι καθημερινή εργασία είναι κάτι που πρέπει να κάνουν για να επιβιώσουν, αλλά είναι καλύτερα αν δουλεύουν λιγότερο όταν δεν τους βλέπει κανείς. Από την παραπάνω γενίκευση θα πρέπει να εξαιρέσουμε τους τομείς τουρισμού και ψυχαγωγίας  και από την εξαίρεση αυτή προκύπτουν συμπεράσματα για την κατάσταση που επικρατεί. Όμως τώρα που κερδίζουν λιγότερα συγκριτικά με τα προηγούμενα χρόνια, θα πρέπει να ξεκινήσουν δεύτερη δουλειά ή να εγκαταλείψουν τον πλούσιο τρόπο ζωής τους (το οποίο σημαίνει να μην αλλάζουν BMW κάθε δύο χρόνια, να μην πουλούν κάποια από τα πολλά ακίνητά τους ή να μην περνάνε κάθε βράδυ μη εργάσιμης μέρας ξοδεύοντας 150 ευρώ για ένα μπουκάλι συνηθισμένο Whisky σε συνηθισμένα μπουζούκια, και να ελαττώσουν σημαντικά τον αριθμό των ερωμένων τους).

Πολλοί ‘οικονομικοί οίκοι’ συμβουλεύουν την Ελλάδα να παρατείνει την ηλικία συνταξιοδότησης και να αναδιαρθρώσει το συνταξιοδοτικό της σύστημα για να εξισορροπήσει το εξωτερικό χρέος.  Η αντίθετη πραγματικότητα που δε φαίνεται να κατανοούν όσοι βγάζουν εύκολα συμπεράσματα είναι το γεγονός ότι η Ελλάδα βρίσκεται σε μια βαθιά αποξενωμένη κοινωνική κατάσταση. Και τα οικονομικά προβλήματα οφείλονται σε άλλες αιτίες. Η διαφθορά στην εκμετάλλευσης των πόρων της ειδικά όσων προέρχονται από την Ευρωπαϊκή Ένωση και η υπερβολική φορολογία της εργατικής της δύναμης ώστε να αναμορφωθούν τα έξοδα της πολιτείας είναι οι πραγματικοί εχθροί  ενάντια στη σωτηρία.

Καθώς νέες απεργίες και διαδηλώσεις προγραμματίζονται κάθε δέκα μέρες πλέον, το κοινό γενικά φαίνεται να μη γνωρίζει την επικείμενη μοίρα του. Συγκεντρώνονται μόνο στο να κάνουν σχέδια για τις καλοκαιρινές τους διακοπές.

Ο βασικός συντελεστής για την Ελληνική οικονομία το 2010 θα είναι η τύχη της τουριστικής σεζόν. Στην επόμενη απεργία στις 8 Ιουλίου θα συμμετέχουν για μια ακόμη φορά οι λιμενεργάτες του Πειραιά οι οποίοι θα σταματήσουν τη θαλάσσια κίνηση στην Ελλάδα για μια ακόμη μέρα. Έτσι οι επιβάτες θα υποχρεωθούν σε άλλες 48 άχρηστες ώρες στα ελληνικά νησιά όπου ο καθένας θα πρέπει να περάσει μία ακόμη μη προγραμματισμένη μέρα περιπλανώμενος και βρίζοντας το κατεστημένο. Μεγάλες εταιρείες κρουαζιέρας έχουν ήδη στείλει τελεσίγραφο, μετά την προηγούμενη απεργία της 29^ης Ιουνίου, ότι θα διακόψουν τις επισκέψεις τους στην Αθήνα αν συνεχιστούν οι απεργίες.

Έτσι, αν τα πρόσφατα δημοσιονομικά δεδομένα είναι ακριβή και η Ελλάδα έχει ήδη χάσει το 8% του ετήσιου τουριστικού εισοδήματος, τότε μάλλον θα είναι σε πολύ χειρότερη κατάσταση μέχρι το τέλος του χρόνου από ότι είχε προβλεφτεί τον περασμένο Μάιο.

Η παγκόσμια οικονομική κρίση μειώνει την όρεξη των αναμενόμενων επισκεπτών γεγονός το οποίο αν συνδυαστεί με την απληστία των Ελλήνων ιδιοκτητών που χρεώνουν περισσότερο, ίσως τελικά σκοτώσει τη μοναδική κότα που γεννά ακόμη χρυσά αυγά στην Ελλάδα. Και τότε δε θα υπάρχει τίποτα…

'Subdued' is The Key

I have spent plenty of time in Greece and her islands in my life. I have seen post Junta days. I have witnessed small or large economical woes. Heck, my family history is a good proof to how Greeks can put themselves into trouble.

In modern times, I have seen many strikes and public demonstrations that are a simple fact of Greek life. But my experiences today, June 29th, 2010 and last few days I spent in Greece are in total contrast to how I felt during my visits of the last few decades.

First of all when on earth us Greeks started to talk low-key? When did we learn to shut up and mourn for ourselves? When our eyes started to gaze at our toes instead of blue skies? When did we become the most muted animals in Europe? As in many other events, of course there is a cacophony in the press and among Greeks in general about what is happening and what to do with that. But the tone is hushed. Everybody basically whispers in Greek standards.

Yes, the situation is dire. After the recent increases in utility prices and the VAT, all prices are increasing everyday. Last night we ate at a restaurant we frequent in Mikrolimani. From the last visit a few months ago prices have gone up at least 20%. And that was too much for an already expensive restaurant especially in Greek standards. (In my humble opinion Greek dining has the best value on price in Europe)


Also this high season, some surprises are awaiting the usual tourist bunch. Popular places like Mykonos have outrageous bed prices set out for July and August. Everybody is getting in line to benefit from the expected hikes in prices. (A pension in Mykonos town in which you can bed for 40 Euros tonight is asking for 150 Euros after July 15th.) And domestic flight prices don't help either.

The problem with the perception of Greeks is that, they can hardly change their daily habits. For most of them daily work is something they have to do to survive, but its better if they can do less without anyone noticing it. To give credit to where it's due we need to exclude tourism and entertainment industries from this generalization, which in itself gives us clues for the situation. But now they earn less comparatively, they either will revert to secondary jobs or will have to give up the lush lifestyles (which means not changing their BMW's every two years, selling some of their abundant number of real estate or not spending every non-workday evening spending 150 Euros on third class bottle of whiskey at a third class bouzoukia, and even reducing number of mistresses by a substantial number).

Many fiscal 'authorities' are giving advice to Greece to extend the age of retirement and reform the pension system to balance her foreign debt. The contrasting reality which these speakeasy people don't seem to realize is the fact that Greece is in a very deeply uprooted social state. And her economical problems lay elsewhere. Corruption on the utilization of resources especially coming from EU and overtaxation of its work force to rehabilitate the state expenditures are the real foes irking against the bsalvation.

As new strikes and protests are scheduled for every ten days now, the public in general seem not to be aware of the imminent fate. They are concentrated on making their summer plans.

The key factor in 2010 for Greek economy will be the fate of tourism season. Next strike on July 8th will once more include the harbor workers at Peireas which in turn will stop sea traffic in Greece for another day. Which in turn will render another 48 hours useless in most of the Greek islands where everybody will be stuck to spend another unplanned day wandering around and cursing the establishment. Large cruise companies have already sent their ultimatum that they will cut their visits to Athens if that happens again after the previous June 29 strike.

So, if the recent fiscal data is correct and if Greece has already lost 8% of her tourism income this year already, she might end the year in a worse situation as far as the fiscal numbers go, than these were reflecting in past May.

Global economic crisis lowering the appetite of prospective visitors, coupled with the greediness of Greek establishment owners to charge more might finally kill one chicken who still lays golden eggs for Greece. And then, there would be none...

One Subdued Summer

People are looking like they move slower.

I arrived at Xios island at 19:30. It was a bumpy boat ride. In my whole life I made that trip on San Nicholas. It's a small boat that acts like a dolphin among the waves. She's speedy. I call her "the U-boat". However this time, lured by my old travel agent who used to sell San Nicholas tickets, I traveled on a boat called "Chios". She was a lot slower and I was one of two passengers on it.

In end-June, 19:30 streets of Xios should have been more lively. It is an outpost of an island really. Its population is mainly people originally from Xios, migrants of western Asia Minor. It lost a lot of its sons and daughters to the United States. So, at the bars and tavernas all summer long, Greeklish is the common language.
Not this June. My taxi driver complained naturally. Kefeneion on the corner of the harbor was deserted. Stray dogs did not run after the car as usual. Normally buzzing travel agents were closed due to time of the day. (Or lack of customers) The flight to Athens was crowded though. Mostly businessmen and traveling locals.

Greece is weird this summer. People are staring at their toes. Yesterday the harbor workers were on strike. No ship left or arrived at Peireas. People were stranded on islands or at the capital. Both the victims and the strikers raised their voices. But there were no newspaper or TV station to report these events. Because today journalists were on strike. I watched today's WorldCup games without any commentary. I once more realized how disturbing the effect of vuvuzela was. God, it's awful!

Plans and preoccupations aside, I will try to understand more this new psyche in Greece. Maybe partying time is over for real for Greece. Even that previous sentence sounds like an oxymoron when heard. Where everything is supposed to be loud and pronounced, this silence can drive you mad.

Having coffee at Kitchen Bar at Marina Zeas today, I observed my fellow patrons. They came, ate or drink dutifully and went on their chores. Except for a young mother, enthusing about her newborn, all was acting behind a gossamer screen. As if they were ghosts of a unsure future.

Of course it is still middle of the week. Of course all will be different during the weekend. We shall live and see. But if Europe is losing its last resort of dolce vita, what kind of heritage we would leave for our kids, I wonder.

The Best Antidote

Discrimination is a social disease. When Greek police started to fight with Muslims a few days ago, one cannot stop but think that discrimination can only be fought with determination. Determination to heal that disease if only by correcting our own behavior against discrimination.

Disrespect against the millennium old Christian relics all around Asia Minor obligates us to respect every minor religious artifact in the Christian world. Let alone burning down a small makeshift mosque at a basement of an apartment building.

This is not about to not justify the acts against Christian minorities under Muslim rule. This is only what Christianity and Western Civilization is all about.

Since the acceptance of fascistic acts of past governments in Turkey by the Turkish Premier, newspapers in this land is publishing interviews with Greeks who has left the country against pressures from the state since 1940's. Old pains have resurfaced. Old memories galore on every page. However, we have to take the example of Mr. Hercules Millas, who has left the country with nothing and dedicated his life as a writer to better the conceptions of Greeks against Turks and vice versa in Greece. Only the Romiossini (Greeks of Asia Minor) and only them, and democratic thought in Greece or elsewhere are the most powerful weapons of this fight against bigotry. Nationalistic and totalitarian speech was never a solution and it surely is not at this time and age.

Turks have to consider the historical context of the successes of Ottoman Empire more carefully. They need to distinguish between the Golden Years and the era where nationalism and need to oppress became the rule of thumb, and its results for themselves.

A post nationalistic enlightenment is needed very badly on these lands. And democracy and tolerance are the only solution. When others would become one of us, we would be able to enjoy our sun, our moon, our wine and our worldly chores better than ever.